Outrage is a powerful spark. But what we do after the fire flares up – that’s where transformation lies.
When Prada’s ₹1.2 lakh leather sandals debuted on the Milan Fashion Week runway, India’s social media lit up. The design bore an uncanny resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals, the handcrafted leather footwear from Maharashtra that traces its roots back over 800 years. No mention of Kolhapur. No acknowledgment of Indian heritage.
The backlash came swiftly. Artisan groups filed complaints. Cultural critics pointed to appropriation. Prada responded – acknowledging the inspiration and pledging to engage with local artisans.
Outrage, it seems, had done its job.
But now that the dust has settled, we must ask a more important question:
Where does this leave Kolhapuri chappals?
And the answer may surprise you:
Stronger. More visible. And better off than before.
Let’s Be Honest: When Was the Last Time Kolhapuris Were Trending?
There was a time – back in the 1970s – when Amitabh Bachchan strutted across the screen in Kolhapuri chappals, giving them the Bollywood seal of cool. But in the decades since, they’ve quietly slipped off the mainstream radar. Relegated to rural markets or occasional ethnic wear, Kolhapuris were rarely seen in fashion circles in Delhi, Mumbai – let alone Milan.
Despite their GI (Geographical Indication) tag, artisan livelihoods have stagnated. Young Indians often don’t even know where Kolhapur is, let alone why its chappals matter.
So when Prada, intentionally or not, put them on a global runway, they did what decades of heritage tourism, policy reports, and GI campaigns could not:
They made Kolhapuris desirable again.
Cultural Appropriation or Cultural Reminder?
Yes, Prada should have credited the origin. No, this isn’t the first time it has happened.
But perhaps this incident is a wake-up call – not for Prada, but for us.
Why is our outrage louder than our investment?
If Kolhapuris are our pride, where are the high-end Indian brands elevating them?
Where is the “House of Kolhapur” label or a D2C platform making artisan footwear go global?
Prada didn’t steal the design. They reminded the world of its beauty. Now, it’s our responsibility to channel that attention into opportunity.
There Are Precedents. Look What Others Did.
This isn’t the first time indigenous design has collided with global fashion – and it won’t be the last.
- The Maasai Shuka and Louis Vuitton: In 2012, Louis Vuitton released a men’s wrap scarf eerily similar to the Maasai tribe’s traditional red checkered cloth – priced at $1,000. Maasai leaders didn’t just protest—they later formed the Maasai Intellectual Property Initiative (MIPI) to assert legal rights and explore licensing deals.
- The Navajo Nation vs Urban Outfitters: In 2011, the retailer launched a “Navajo” line of underwear and flasks – prompting a lawsuit. It was withdrawn, but more importantly, it triggered a larger conversation about indigenous IP rights.
- India’s Own Success Stories: Fabindia and Good Earth have built entire empires on respectful storytelling and fair collaborations with Indian artisans. Recently, brands like Chamar Studio and Okhai are pushing the envelope, turning grassroots crafts into modern lifestyle statements.
The key insight? Heritage becomes powerful when it becomes visible, desirable, and monetized with dignity.
The Next Chapter: Don’t Just Preserve – Promote
Let’s move beyond outrage. Let’s get strategic.
- Launch a Kolhapuri Design Collaborative, pairing artisans with young Indian designers and international stylists.
- Create an India Heritage Index – a public-private partnership to brand and market crafts like Kolhapuris, Paithanis, Pashminas, and Banarasi brocades.
- Facilitate global retail access through e-commerce platforms that prioritize storytelling, provenance, and fair pricing.
Because truth be told, Kolhapur doesn’t need Prada’s permission. But it can ride Prada’s spotlight.
Final Thought: Culture Isn’t Fragile. It’s Strategic.
Let’s stop treating our culture like glass – breakable and in constant need of protection.
Let’s treat it like a diamond – durable, valuable, and in need of smart showcasing.
When Prada met Kolhapur, something broke. But maybe it wasn’t a theft.
Maybe it was the wall between tradition and transformation.
Let’s walk through it – wearing Kolhapuris.
